3 R's of Sustainability in Textiles

ABSTRACT 
 
The present paper is about 3 R’s. At one point or another we have all heard about the 3 R’s of sustainability: Reduce, Reuse and Recycle. The goal of this is to prevent waste and conserve nature resources. In today’s Textile world the recycling of textile waste can serve as a means of providing solutions to many economic, environmental and social issues. Though textile recycling has old history; in recent years it has assumed prime importance due to Fast Fashion culture in western world which has resulted in over consumption of textiles and corresponding waste generation. Today waste recycling has become a multi-billion industry. A survey shows that the average life of a piece of cloth is about 3 years but the actual situation is somewhat different. There are different methods for textile recycling; mechanical, chemical and thermal recovery. Considering the diversity of textile materials waste and forms, several technologies and techniques of waste recycling must work in an integrated way in order to achieve a noticeable impact on recycling. Although the environmental awareness of the general public has increased significantly in recent years, their willingness to actively participate in waste reduction still needs to be enhanced. Recycling of textiles was a domestic craft in India but currently there are textile clusters and small scale industries to work on second hand imported clothing and create a range of products like recycled yarns, doormats, prayer rugs, blankets and bed linen. The leftover garments are cut into square pieces to be sold as industrial wipers for the paints, chemicals and construction industries, for both local and international buyers in Japan and Australia. Waste is used to stuff pillows and mattresses. Textile or apparel waste is generally categorized as either pre-consumer or post-consumer waste. The pre-consumer waste consists of by-product material from the yarn, textile and apparel industries. Post-consumer textile waste mainly originates from household sources and consists of garments or textiles which the owner no longer needs as it was.

Keywords: 3R’s, Sustainability, Consumption, Waste, Recycle, Awareness.

INTRODUCTION
If you have heard of something called the “waste hierarchy” you may be wondering what that means. It is the order of priority of actions to be taken to reduce the amount of waste generated, and to improve overall waste management processes and programs. The waste hierarchy consists of 3 R’s as follows:
  • Reduce
  • Reuse
  • Recycle
Called the “three R’s” of waste management, this waste hierarchy is the guidance suggested for creating a sustainable life. You might be wondering as to how you can incorporate these principles in your daily life. They are not hard to implement. All you need is to bring a small change in your daily lifestyle to reduce waste. The three R’s – reduce, reuse and recycle – all help to cut down on the amount of waste we throw away. They conserve natural resources, landfill space and energy. Plus, the three R’s save land and money communities must use to dispose of waste in landfills. Siting a new landfill has become difficult and more expensive due to environmental regulations and public opposition By refusing to buy items that you don’t need, reusing items more than once and disposing the items that are no longer in use at appropriate recycling centers, you can contribute towards a healthier planet.
Three R’s sustainability
Fig: Three R’s sustainability
Worldwide, consumers are buying and disposing of almost five times as much clothing as they did 25 years ago. More than 10.5 million tons of clothing ends up in landfills every year clothing and textiles account for more than 6% of all garbage. Textile pollution is a serious problem around the world. According to some estimates, the textile industry is the second-largest polluter next to oil. Luckily, there are more and more new and innovative textile recycling methods and ways to reduce textile waste that are gaining prominence around the globe and providing a great benefit to our planet. The most common way to combat textile waste is to donate used clothing. Countless charities and thrift stores collect donated clothing for re-sale or distribution, and almost half of used clothing gets worn again. However, not all clothing is suitable to be re-worn. This clothing can be shredded, ground down, and then reprocessed to create new products. Textile recycling can extract virgin, raw materials out of the clothing and repurpose them in new fibers and textiles.

REDUCE
The concept of reducing what is produced and what is consumed is essential to the waste hierarchy. The logic behind it is simple to understand – if there is less waste, then there is less to recycle or reuse. The process of reducing begins with an examination of what you are using, and what it is used for. There are three simple steps to assessing the reduction value of an item or process – Is there something else that can be used for this purpose? Using multi-use items is essential to beginning reduction.

Buy less stuff
You don’t need 8 pairs of jeans and 20 sweaters, and neither do your kids. You also don’t really need new sheets, towels and bathmats every season. If you can’t fit everything neatly in your linen closet, you may have an overbuying issue.

Buy WAY LESS
For babies and young kids. Babies and young tots need almost no clothing to survive and thrive, yet this is a demographic that often owns more clothing than adults. I get it. Clothing for little ones is adorable and fun, but honestly, little kids grow super speed fast, meaning they’ll get very little wear out of items you buy. Buy a lot less clothing for kids.

Buy used
Thrift stores, garage sales and consignments are awesome places to get tons of clothing and other textiles like tablecloths and cloth napkins. You can even find tons of reuse fabric, yarn and other goodies at thrift stores, if you happen to be someone who sews.

Buy green
Although eco-friendly textiles costs more, it’s one, worth it and two, due to the added costs and trouble finding greener clothing, maybe you’ll think harder before purchasing something you really don’t need.

Wash right with gentle, eco-friendly detergent and break your addiction to hot water laundry. Hot water and harsh detergents will break your textiles down faster.Make what you have last much longer by hanging it up to dry vs. tossing it into the dryer. Dryers are hard on textiles, so if you must dry, dry on a low setting. I advise you hang most laundry. If you’re lazy, like me, skip the whole clothespins drama and simply grab clothes from the washer and hang them on hangers. Once dry, pop those rights into the closet. Really think through the textiles you do buy. For clothing, consider not buying something right away. Give yourself time to think it over. A week later, if you’re still dreaming of that cute little dress, go back and pick it up. You can do the same with other textiles and shoes too.Teach your teens, major textiles buyers in the USA, how to live with less stuff too.Ban annual shopping holidays. America is weird in that we hold major holidays simply to shop. The two biggies are Black Friday and the weeks leading up to “back to school” time. I know parents who purchase insane new wardrobes for kids JUST because it’s back to school time, even if they have plenty of clothing they haven’t outgrown. That’s nuts. Buy when you need, not by the calendar. Start this when they’re young, or your kids will get used to shopping holidays.

Swap and Share
One person’s trash is another person’s treasure, right? Create a clothing exchange among your friends. Have a party where each person brings clothes that he or she no longer wants. Trade with your friends so that everyone leaves with fresh items for their wardrobe – without spending a dime or sending anything to the landfill.

Re-Fashion
With the popularity of Pinterest and online blogs, DIY has never been so exciting and creative. Check out online DIY resources for creative ideas on how to turn an old t-shirt into something fresh and new. Or come up with your own ideas to re-fashion your clothing.

Rags to Riches
Why not make a couple of extra bucks from nice clothes you no longer want? Resell your clothing online or at your neighborhood consignment shop.

Donate, Feel Great
Donating your clothing is a great way to give back to the community while also clearing out space in your closet. Donations are often tax-deductible, too.

Don’t Scrap It
Turn your unwanted clothing into functional products. Oversized or faded t-shirt? Great for comfy pajamas. Ripped t-shirt? Might be great for household cleaning. Outdated skirt? Could be a great apron.

As you begin your spring cleaning, keep in mind that your clothing can be kept out of the landfill and recycled, reused or repurposed for the greater good.

REUSE
Fashion changes from season to season, but even non-fashionistas regularly dispose of textiles. Clothing, drapery, sheets and upholstery all make it into the waste stream, to the tune of 40 million tons in 2009, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. As a recyclable material, textiles shouldn't be tossed in the trash, but even recycling uses energy. Your first option should be reuse. Sort the textiles that you no longer need. Inspect each item, and consider why you no longer want it. If simple repairs or tailoring could allow you to use it again, place it in the "fixable" pile. If the item is in good shape and just no longer fits you or you simply don't want it anymore, place it in the "donate" pile. If the item is stained, ripped or otherwise damaged, place it in the "recycle" pile. Identify a charity to receive your donation. Any organization with a thrift shop will take it, but rules differ. Some organizations provide a pickup service, while others require you to bring the items to them. Either way, fold the items and neatly place them in a plastic garbage bag to protect them from the elements --- if the clothing gets wet before it gets processed, it can grow mold and become unusable. Contact your charity of choice, and arrange a pickup or drop-off. Locate a local tailor who can mend your "fixable" pile. Hang these items neatly and store them in a garment bag until your fitting appointment. Severe wrinkling affects the way a garment hangs and can hinder a tailor's ability to properly pin the areas to be tailored, so keep these fixable clothes as neat as possible. Sort through your "recycle" pile and look for items that can be repurposed. Cut old T-shirts into rags and reuse buttons. Gather everything that's left into a bag for recycling. Contact your local solid waste authority to determine how clothing recycling is handled in your area. Some areas include it in the curbside recycling program, but may have specific rules about bundling. You may have to drop off textiles at a central facility, or there may be drop-off bins in various places around town. Drop-off bins allow you to simply toss the items directly into the covered bin, saving the use of a plastic bag. If your area doesn't offer textile recycling, find the collector nearest you.

Textiles are one of those items that almost never need thrown away. Especially if you’ve ditched paper towels (which I hope you have in most cases). We donate outgrown clothing that’s in good shape, but otherwise we re-purpose most of our used textiles into cleaning cloths or other goods.

Some nice ways to re-purpose textiles:
  1. Make a pet bed softer.
  2. Make a sock teddy bear or some good old sock puppets.
  3. Use for doll clothing and dollhouse furniture.
  4. Make an adorable halter dress for you, your daughter.
  5. Make a woven rug with old textiles.
  6. Make knotted doggie toys.
  7. Make a camping bag with old jeans.
  8. Keep old towels on hand for car oil changes or washing your car.
  9. Tee shirt baby hats – adorable!
  10. Make a baby memory pillow.
  11. Hem old textiles and make homemade baby wipes, dishtowels or cloth napkins.
  12. Make an awesome tote bag – or your own reusable shopping bags.
  13. Use old sheets or towels for kid’s art projects – either in an art project or as a catch sheet for paint and pastels.
RECYCLE
The third and final R in the 3R Waste Hierarchy is Recycle. Recycling involves recovering the valuable raw materials from a product, using either mechanical or chemical recovery processes, and utilizing these as inputs into new products. This process keeps unnecessary waste out of landfills and conserves virgin materials. Widespread adoption of textile recycling can help to move the apparel industry away from a traditional linear economy, in which products are produced, consumed, and disposed of, to a circular economy. In a circular economy, products are produced and consumed, but resources from discarded products are recovered and reused in the production process. A circular economy reduces the impacts associated with a linear system by extracting the maximum value from materials and ensuring cultivation of new resources is not required. The recycling process includes two stages: the collection and handling of textiles, and; the processing of textiles.

Collection & Handling of Textiles
The first stage in the recycling processes is collection and handling of textile waste. Waste is created at both the pre- and post-consumer stages. Pre-consumer waste is created during the production process. This includes waste produced during fiber and yarn production and unused scrap fabric from cut-and-sew operations. Conversely, post-consumer waste consists of items disposed by the public following consumption. Collecting pre-consumer waste requires the coordination of industry players, while recovery of post-consumer waste entails public cooperation.

Processing of Textiles
The second stage of textile recycling is the processing of collected textiles. Depending on how the textiles are processed, they will either contribute to an open-loop system or a closed loop system. In an open-loop system, the material cannot be recycled indefinitely, either because of degradation of the raw material during the recycling process or inclusion of the raw material in non-recyclable products. An open-loop system will postpone waste generation, but ultimately does not prevent it. On the other hand, in a closed-loop system, the material can be recycled continually without degradation of the raw material. Of the two methods used for textile recycling, mechanical recycling represents an open-loop system, whereas, chemical recycling is part of a closed-loop system. In the mechanical recycling process, textiles are broken down through cutting, shredding, and carding processes. The fibers produced through this process are weaker and shorter than virgin fibres. To increase quality these fibres are blended with virgin fibres, resulting in a 20% reprocessed and 80% virgin mix. Mechanically recycled fibres are used in various applications, including upholstery, insulation materials, carpet underlays, disposable diapers, napkins, wiping, and fillings, among others. In the chemical recycling process fibre molecules are broken down and re-polymerized and then re-spun into new fibres. Unlike mechanical recycling, there is no loss of quality since the resulting fibres are the same length and quality as virgin fibres. As such, the outputs of the chemical recycling process can easily be reintroduced into the production chain. Currently this process is most commonly used for synthetic textiles, particularly polyester. Teijin, a Japanese company, has developed a fibre-to-fibre polyester recycling process, and through their ECO CIRCLE program, works with over partner companies, including Patagonia. Teijin’s process, which formulates new, raw polyester materials by breaking down discarded polyester fabric into monomers, results in an energy saving of 76% and a 71% CO2 emissions reduction compared with polyester produced from virgin materials. Additionally, this process does not require the use of petroleum in the production process. Chemical recycling techniques exist for natural fibres as well, however these technologies are not yet widespread. Re: newcell and Evrnu are two companies at the forefront of this process. This process uses 98% less water than traditional cotton fiber and reduces CO2 by 90% compared to polyester production

If you plan on recycling textiles you should know that typically they’re not sorted at the point of collection, but keeping them clean and free from moisture is important. Once clothes get wet, stained, or mildewed, they cannot be sold for reuse.
  • Give gently used textiles and shoes to thrift stores or another local charity or sell your used textiles at a garage sale.
  • Host a clothing exchange.
  • Find a local clothing drop off box.
  • Check with your local recycling center – some actually accept textiles.
  • You can compost many textiles.
  • Look for textile recycling options at Earth 911. Almost everything you have (textile-wise) can be recycled, even shoes.
DEVELOPMENT IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY WASTE RECYCLING
Evrnu, a Seattle-based textile recycling company, turns discarded cotton clothing into pulp, and then turns that pulp into high-quality fibers that are ready to be made into new clothes. Evrnu claims that their process uses very few raw materials, and uses 98% less water than virgin cotton production. The process is almost entirely waste free. In 2016, Evrnu partnered with Levi Strauss & Co. to produce jeans made from this process that are of the same quality as a traditional pair of Levi’s.

Re: newcell is a company at the forefront of this process. Re: newcell recycles cotton and other cellulosic textiles into a dissolving pulp, which can be introduced into the textile production chain.

Using used clothing as fuel may seem far-fetched, but it’s quickly becoming a reality. Jeplan, a Japanese recycling company whose name is short for Japan Environment Planning, is pioneering a method that will allow cotton fiber to be extracted from used clothing and textiles during a fermentation process and then converted to fuel. According to Jeplan, one ton of used clothing can generate approximately 700 liters of bioethanol. Jeplan is currently working with Japan Airlines and Tokyo’s Green Earth Institute in order to use their process to make fuel for Japan Airlines’ planes. Jeplan has already partnered with more than twelve companies in Japan to collect clothing for this purpose. Trial flights are set to begin in 2020, and Japan Airlines is hopeful that a commercial flight plant will be established by 2030.

This process uses 98% less water than traditional cotton fibre and reduces CO2 by 90% compared to polyester production.

CONCLUSION
The issues due to textile waste generation are related to over consumption of textiles in western world. The diversion of old textiles for reuse meets the requirements of clothing for 70% of the population in developing countries. Like other wastes, textile waste disposal through landfill and incineration is responsible for global warming. Though textile recycling has old history, today it has become multibillion industry producing innovative high value products. Many agencies and stake holders are making efforts to contribute towards the aim for saving in resources of raw materials, energy water etc. and reducing the impact on environment for sustainable development. In future textile recycling would be as important industrial activity as textile manufacturing.

References:
  1. https://www.conserve-energy-future.com/reduce-reuse-recycle.php
  2. https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/waste-minimization-textile-industry/
  3. https://sustainability.ncsu.edu/blog/changeyourstate/closets-afterlife-5-ways-reduce-clothing-waste/
  4. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/reuse-recycle-apparel-textiles-79534.html
  5. http://www.wildlifehc.org/an-introduction-to-the-three-rs-of-sustainability/
  6. https://yorkspace.library.yorku.ca/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10315/34835/MESMP02832.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y
  7. http://www.growingagreenfamily.com/reduce-reuse-and-recycle-textile-waste/
  8. https://elizabethgalloway.co.za/reduce-reuse-recycle-textile-waste/ 
   
Mr. Sajid Shabbir Mulla
Department of Textile Technology  
Jawaharlal Darda Institute Of Engineering And Technology, Maharashtra, India
Email: mullasajid9019@gmail.com

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